GRAND CANYON my hike

Day 3

Early Morning

I opened my eyes just past 5:00 am as the first sunlight moved into the Grand Canyon. First the sun caught the tips of the canyon mountains and walls and slowly moved deeper into the canyon changing the color of the rock from darker brown, grey and purple to a glowing variety of yellow and red.

Bright Angel Creek, view from the campground bridge (enlargeable)

'It's the last day here and we have to get ready to hike out' went through my mind and I could feel a little bit of sadness. Looking out of our tent I saw the first hikers leaving the campground. It was time to get up.
First we had to rearrange our backpacks - most of our stuff should go out on mules. I kept the important equipment, food, water for both of us in my backpack. The rest went into my friends backpack and a big duffel bag which I carried to a place behind the canteen on Phantom Ranch. Both pieces of luggage had to be put into 2 provided big duffel bags, then measured, weighed and a name and date written on. It took some time to get it done.

Back on the campground we had a quick breakfast and got ready to hike out. Today there were some clouds in the sky. We did't mind because that meant also lower temperatures and less sweating.
I carried my backpack and my friend a smaller one with water and some snacks.

Bright Angel Trail

It's a 4.7 miles (7.6 km) hike from the Bright Angel Campground (elevation 2480 feet / 756 m) to Indian Garden (elevation 3800 feet / 1158 m) and then another 4.6 miles (7.4 km) to the trailhead at the South Rim (elevation 6860 feet / 2091 m). All together a distance of 9.3 miles (15 km).

The way out began the same way we went yesterday, passed the Park River Ranger Station and crossed the Colorado over the Silver Bridge. Then we had to turn westwards (downstream). The well maintained trail follows the river for about two miles and crosses some dune sections. Then we reached the point where the 'real' hike begins and the River Resthouse (drinking water) is located.

View just south of the River Resthouse, towards Devils Corkscrew (enlargeable)

From the Devils Corkscrew, north, towards Colorado River (enlargeable)

The trail turned left, leaving the Colorado River behind and an easy but steady incline brought us after another 0.5 miles to the Devil's Corkscrew. Here the steep trail winds up in several switchbacks through the Vishnu Schist to a nice place to rest for the first time. There we had a great view at the steep trail we just went.

Switchbacks at the Devils Corkscrew (enlargeable)

Waterfall along the trail (enlargeable)

From here on the trail follows closely the little Garden Creek. For me this is the nicest part of the Bright Angel Trail and here we got some shade too. And the closer we came to Indian Garden the greener it became.

Blooming cactus, about 12 feet high (enlargeable)

Close to Indian Garden, 'The Battleship' in the background (enlargeable)

We past the intersection with the Tonto East Trail which leads to The Tipoff point (South Kaibab Trail).
The entire Tonto Trail is not well maintained (wilderness trail), 95 miles (152.9 km) long and follows the Tonto Platform from the Garnet Canyon (in the west) to the Red Canyon (in the east, close to the Little Colorado River).

Now we can see the trail from Indian Garden to the Plateau Point in the west and some mules and hikers on it - like little ants. A few minutes later we reach Indian Garden.

Indian Garden

Here it is already much cooler than at the Colorado river level. First we see about a dozen of mules waiting for their riders and then the benches around a drinking fountain. Till now we had met only a few hikers but here at Indian Garden we are 'surrounded' by almost fifty Grand Canyon visitors from all over the world - it's a busy place. We hear them talking in English, Japanese, German, French, Italian, Spanish and other languages I couldn't recognize - dayhikers with small backpacks or just a bottle of water, some wearing hiking boots, others sneakers. One lady was wearing a glitter blouse, skirt and sandals - sorry, but we had to laugh about that. It is just not the right outfit for a hike from the rim to Indian Garden on a steep trail. Now we understand why there are so many accidents from dayhikers (despite the warnings at the trailheads about the danger of hiking into the canyon).
Now on our third day in the canyon we didn't feel comfortable here. It's too crowded and noisy. The beautiful quiet canyon looses here the battle with the visitors.
Here we rested only for 15 minutes, eat some power bars, filled up some fresh drinking water and moved on towards the South Rim. I remember that I felt some sadness. My mind had already said good-bye to one of the most beautiful and stunning places in the world. Now it was just a matter of finishing the hike.

Mules are greeting us...

...and more are arriving.

A busy place around the drinking water refill area (enlargeable)

A look back at Indian Garden (enlargeable)

We past the campground and left Indian Garden behind us. An easy but steady uphill trail was followed by the first switchbacks and steeper terrain - just before we arrived at the Three-Mile Resthouse.

Three-Mile Resthouse

Another place for a short stop, some fresh water and a snack. We feel good and screaming kids are not really inviting for a longer rest. So we head towards our last stop - the Mile-and-a-Half Resthouse. We see more and more visitors on the trail - most of them with the friendly 'I-am-a-Grand Canyon-hiker smile'.
We decided to pass the last resthouse (we had still enough water) and to stop a few minutes later - hoping for a more quiet place. Well, there was not such a thing as a quiet place but we rested anyway, had one more time something to eat and drink and enjoyed a nice breeze.

This last part of the trail is very steep and I have to admit I was getting a little bit tired. It was almost 3 pm. At 4 pm our duffels would have to be picked up at the Fred Harvey Livery Barn or we would have to stay over night to get them the next morning. So we decided to split and my friend went ahead with only some water. I followed with the rest of our gear a little bit slower.
Switchback after switchback I came closer to the rim. Soon I could hear the people at the rim chatting and laughing and once in a while I stopped to look back into the canyon. Now the sun came through and the shadows of the clouds were moving over the Grand Canyon - a fascinating show of light and changing colors.
My eyes followed down the trail to Indian Garden, from there the trail to Plateau Point. My thoughts went back to the moment we started our hike, the expectations we had and the amazing hours we were able to spend here.

A look back at the switchbacks and one of the resthouses... (enlargeable)

...and just below the rim down to Indian Garden and Plateau Point (enlargeable)

Soon I could see the Kolb Studio at the edge of the rim where the Bright Angel Trail begins and our hike ended. Short steps bring me to the last switchbacks and through the tunnel in the rock - the last minutes of an unforgettable hike.

The tunnel in the rock, just below the rim

The Kolb Studio at the edge of the South Rim (enlargeable)

At the rim I looked back one more time and I said to myself 'Yes, you made it'. A dream had become true!

A little girl approached me with a big smile and asked "Did you go all the way down?". "Yes, I did", I answered. "How is it down there?" she wanted to know. "It is very beautiful - something you can't see anywhere else."

Good-bye

Minutes later I met my friend at the parking lot close to the Backcountry Office (the duffels were already in the car). We looked at each other for a moment and had the same thought: We will be back!
Driving out of the Grand Canyon National Park I had still the views of this amazing place in my mind and I had the feeling of saying good-bye to a good friend - a friend forever.


[NEXT: Final Thoughts] [BACK TO: Grand Canyon, Start/Index]

send to printer

---

Website Orientation:
> Home/Welcome
  > EXTRA!!! my magazine
    > Grand Canyon
      > My Hike
        > Day 3 (= you are here)

[Welcome]  [USA Austria]  [EXTRA - my magazine]  [Webcam Links]  [Link Collection]
[About me]  [Photo Collections]  [Downloads]  [Disclaimer]  [Sitemap]  [Guestbook]  [Email]

If you didn't get to this page through the mainpage ('choose a language')
of gbintheworld.com then please click here!!!

© gbintheworld

Datenschutzerklärung