GRAND CANYON my hike

Day 2

Early Morning

I woke up at around 5:30 am and felt pretty good - just the calves 'told' me about yesterday. The sun was up and I saw some hikers with big backpacks leaving the campground.

Our tent

I decided to walk around the campground a little bit. It would be good for may calf muscles.
On my way through the camp I saw the helpful Park Ranger again (her name was Della), cleaning up the small irrigation canals which bring water to the shade-spending bushes and trees around the tents. We chatted a little bit and she gave me the tip that there is a duffel service (on pack mules) we might would like to use for our backpacks. So we wouldn't have to carry so much on our way back to the South Rim. I should ask at the Phantom Ranch for details and availability. Great idea!

My friend was up now too - checking the blisters and using the first aid kit. That did not look good. One big blister on a big toe, one on the side of the food and a smaller underneath - all on one food. So we decided to have a relaxing day with a short and easy hike and some fun at the Colorado river.

Blooming cactus

Then I went to the Phantom Ranch, crossing the Bright Angel Creek on the bridge, passing the Park Ranger Station and along beautiful blooming cacti. Through the 'mule departure coral' I entered the ranch area, walking under old cottonwood trees. This short trail passes the cabins and leads to the canteen where I asked about the 'duffel service'. I got an info-letter with detailed notes and was told that it would be possible to make a reservation and to send out some luggage the next day with the mule train. It had to be ready at 7:00 am the next day (see details about the duffel service on my Phantom Ranch page). Perfect! I payed for two duffels right away and went back to the campground.

Now it was time for an extensive breakfast. We had hot coffee, cheese & ham on dark bread and trail mix (I love nuts with dried fruits). And we discussed the plan for the day. The easy and short River Trail seemed to be the best, followed by a few hours at the 'beach' of the Phantom Ranch on the Colorado river. It would be a day without the hiking boots, just Teva sandals.
We stored the food again in the provided food container at our campsite (a must - the cute and smart squirrels would 'dig' into backpacks to get some 'treats') and hang the backpacks onto the high T-poles - off the ground.

The River Trail

We left the Bright Angel Campground with only a small backpack (snacks, water) over the small camp bridge and turned right (west) towards the Colorado river. As we saw the Park Ranger River Station to the right we crossed again the Bright Angel Creek over a small bridge. To our left we could see the Black Bridge in the distance. This trail is also the beginning of the Bright Angel Trail which we would use the next day back to the South Rim.
Then we passed some buildings of a Ranger Station and a mule coral and saw the Silver Bridge, crossing the river, in front of us.

View from the Bright Angel Creek, with the Black Bridge in the distance (enlargeable)

The Silver Bridge (enlargeable)

That long bridge is only used by hikers, not by mules. Mule trips go over the Black Bridge which has a heavy 'plastic carpet' so the mules are not able to see straight down into the water and their hoofs don't sound like thunder on the metal construction.

Right when we crossed the Silver Bridge several rafting boats came down the Colorado and went underneath the bridge down the river. Some were gigantic with over 20 people on board - others were much smaller, just big enough for two.

Rafters on the Colorado river waving at us (enlargeable)

Enjoying the beautiful views (enlargeable)

On the other side of the bridge the trail split. To the right the Bright Angel Trail follows the river westwards. We had to make a left to stay on the River Trail which connects to the South Kaibab Trail.
Now the trail along the river went up a little bit, just slightly and not bad at all - compared to the steep trail we went yesterday. At the highest point (about 200 feet above the river) we took a break. It was time to have a snack and to enjoy the view.
The Bright Angel Creek and the Colorado River Ranger Station were laying in front of us on the other side of the river. And we could see the high cottonwood trees along the creek which mark the place where our campground is located.

Each time you take a chance to enjoy the incredible views you realize that you are at one of the most spectacular places on earth.

Tunnel to the Black Bridge (enlargeable)

Rafts at the 'Phantom Ranch Beach' (enlargeable)

BLACK BRIDGE Initially visitors ferried across the muddy water. In 1907, David Rust, the first developer of the area, built a cable car large enough for one mule. This was followed by a swinging suspension bridge in 1921. The present 440 ft (134 m) long rigid suspension bridge was constructed in 1928. The eight main cables (each 550 ft/168 m long) could not be loaded on mules. They were carried down the trail on the shoulders of man.

Soon we followed the River Trail again till we reached the South Kaibab Trail, coming down into the canyon from the South Rim. Here we turned left and went through the short tunnel leading to the Kaibab Suspension Bridge (also called Black Bridge). We had used this bridge already yesterday but it was after sunset.

Today we saw some rafting boats on the sandy 'beach' of the Phantom Ranch area. People enjoyed a break of their amazing white-water journey down the river, took pictures, laught and streched their legs.
On the other side of the bridge the trail made a sharp u-turn to the right and went back westwards underneath the bridge. A few minutes later we approached the site of an ancestral indian pueblo (dated 1050 - 1140), reminder of a past culture.

Now it was just past noon and it was the perfect time to cool off. So we headed down to the beach-like sand area along the river. Knowing that it is not recommended (!) to swim in the cold and strong river we just went a few feet into the water. It was very cold! We didn't stay in there for more than a minute but it was long enough to cool off for a while.
Didn't we say that this will be a relaxing day? And it was. We laid down in the warm sand and enjoyed the beautiful weather.

Mid-afternoon we went to Phantom Ranch's canteen to enjoy a cold beer, to write some postcards to friends and chatted with other hikers for some time.

Getting ready again

Back at the campground we studied the map and some copies (of hiking guide books) for the hike out of the canyon the next day. Checked out again the places where we would get drinking water. We knew it is harder to hike back to the rim but we wouldn't have so much to carry and my friend's blisters looked a lot better. The day rest was the right decision.

After a healthy dinner I got the chance to play my Native American flute. Sitting along the Bright Angel Creek, surrounded by high canyon walls and accompanied by the sound of the water, I enjoyed my favorite music instrument. Why did the flute sound better here? Why did some melodies just jump into my mind? It must have been the inspiration of this beautiful place - a place which teaches everybody a lesson: The importance of a single moment.

We went to bed early but not without looking up to the millions of stars in the sky and the bright shining moon one more time.


[NEXT: Day 3] [BACK TO: Grand Canyon, Start/Index]

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